Full Grain: The most durable grade of leather, utilizing the strength of the top layer of the hide, it keeps all of the natural blemishes of a hide making it less uniform but giving more of a natural feel and look. The most expensive out of the common leather grades.
(USED AT JACKASS LEATHERWORKS)
Top Grain: The second highest grade of leather, similar to full grain leather only it has been sanded and buffed in order to get rid of any natural blemishes or scars on the hide, but also loosing some strength and thickness because of how much it has been thinned during the sanding process.
(NOT USED AT JACKASS LEATHERWORKS)
Suede (Not an official grade of leather): A more delicate and pliable leather made from splitting a hides top layer (the grain) from its fuzzy underside (the flesh side). The hide is then sanded and buffed which raises tiny protein fibers in the hide, creating a velvet like texture. Since the grain has been removed suede does not have as much strength as Top or Full Grain leather.
(USED AT JACKASS LEATHERWORKS)
Genuine: Don’t let the name fool you this grade of leather is hardly leather at all. Genuine leather is the split that is removed from the grain of a hide during the tanning process (like suede). That split is then taken and a layer of paint and or polyurethane is added to the top, then stamped with a grain pattern, in order to visually mimic the look of real leather. Though it may look like leather from a far, it does not age nor react like leather does. Often cracking, flaking, and breaking. Though suede and genuine leather are similar in the splitting part of the process they are not the same. Suede is tanned and finished in its own process. Whereas genuine leather (in simplified terms) is weakened leather splits that have a coat of plastic coated onto them.
(WILL NEVER EVER EVER BE USED AT JACKASS LEATHERWORKS)
Bonded: This is the lowest and cheapest grade of leather (if you can even call it that), just under genuine leather, this “material” is made by taking leather shavings, scraps, and dust (from sanded leather), then adding glues, vinyl’s, and plastic based finishes, in order to mimic the look of leather
(WILL ALSO NEVER EVER EVER BE USED AT JACKASS LEATHERWORKS)
Grades of Leather:
One of the reasons I feel it is so important for me and my fellow leatherworkers to do what we do is because of what has become of people's views on leather, mainly the lies and misconstructions people have been swayed into believing. Take for example “genuine leather”, I challenge anyone to go into a store, look for the leather products, whether its belts, wallets, or bags and try to find what kind of leather it is made of. Nine times out of ten it will say genuine leather. Reading that, you might think to yourself “Oh this must mean its real leather”. But as I stated before, this is NOT the case. The term is meant to lead you to believe in that lie, and it works. Because most people don’t know the grades of leather and why should you, if it says leather it should be 100% leather. Now the fault does not fall onto you, but the companies who have led you to believe in that lie. My goal is to be completely transparent and honest with anyone and everyone who looks to me to find an actual leather product. And if someone wants to know what materials are used in that product, the answer will be presented directly to them, no research needed. I hope all of this information wasn’t too much to take in all at once, and I hope you’ve learned a thing or two about what I and this business stands for.
Tanning Processes and types of leather;
Vegetable Tanned/Veg Tan:
A tanning process that uses natural materials like leaves, bark, and plants to turn an animals hide into leather. This process takes more time than the others, ranging from weeks to months to turn a hide into leather. Making this type of leather more expensive than others, but it yields a stronger and more durable leather. With time and use this type of leather will receive what is known as a patina. Which is a sheen that develops on the top layer of the leather, acting as a protective layer, this is also what some people believe gives a leather piece its character. Making the leather more supple and softer over time, accentuating the wear marks and impressions it has taken on over the years.
Chrome Tanned/Chrome Tan:
A tanning process in which chromium salts are used to turn an animal’s hide into leather. This is a softer, more supple, and more water resistant type of leather. This process only taking days, as opposed to the weeks or months that vegetable tanning requires. The shortened time reflects its price, this type of leather is more affordable than vegetable tanned leather. Though it will slightly, chrome tanned leather will not patina nearly as much as veg tan leather will.
Pull up Leather:
Leather that is stuffed with waxes and oils during the tanning process. When it is bent, scratched, or stretched, the oils and waxes within the leather will rise to the surface causing that spot to lighten in color. With use this leather will start to develop a marbling type pattern. The lightened areas can be darked again, just by applying some friction and heat to that area (rub it with a piece of cloth and the darker color will return to the desired area). This type of leather can be either chrome tanned or vegetable tanned.
Tanneries;
Horween: (Derby)
- This Tannery was founded in Chicago Illinois in 1905
- To this day, it still supplies the leather for NBA basketballs (since 2003) and NFL footballs (since 1941)
- Their tanning process has remained mostly the same since the beginning, with a few modern twists added over time.
- Best known for their "combination tanned" leathers, where the hides are chrome tanned, and then vegetable tanned
Whickett and Craig: (English Bridle)
- Originally founded in Toronto, Canada, in 1867 the tannery moved to Curwensville Pennsylvania in 1989
- This tannery focuses solely on producing vegetable tanned leather and annually produces 4,500,000 square feet of leather
- This tannery is extremely focused on making their production eco friendly, taking every step they can to ensure that all waste is dealt with properly, and that they do not damage the environment around them
Newbury Leather: (Tortoise)
Located in Newburyport Massachusetts since 1945, focusing solely on producing chrome tanned leather, they are very set on following all of the USA environmental protection laws, making sure to be as clean and green as possible
Valdirana Conceria: (Tarano)
Located in Tuscany Italy, focusing on producing “vachetta” leather. This is a type of vegetable tanned leather that is known for having a softer finish.